How to Do a French Pleat
A French pleat, often called a French twist, is a smart, classic updo you can do yourself in a few minutes. Here's how to do one, and which comb, pin or clip will hold it best for your hair.
What is a French pleat?
Your hair is gathered at the back, twisted upwards into a vertical roll, and held against your head. The ends are tucked inside, so it looks neat from every side.
It needs hair roughly shoulder length or longer, and the right accessory makes the difference between a pleat that lasts all day and one that slowly unravels.
How to do a French pleat
1. Gather
Brush your hair back and gather it at the nape of your neck, as if you were making a low ponytail. You don't need an elastic.
2. Twist upwards
Twist the hair in one direction, keeping it tight, and lift it so the twist runs straight up the back of your head.
3. Fold and tuck
Press the twist flat against your head and tuck the loose ends down inside the roll. Hold it in place with one hand.
4. Secure it
Fix the pleat with a comb, chignon pins or a beak clip (see below). Give your head a gentle shake. If nothing moves, you're done.
Three ways to hold it
A comb
The quickest option. With the teeth pointing down, push the comb in at the top of the pleat so it catches the roll and some of the hair beneath it.
Our 7cm and 10cm French Twist Combs are made for this, with smooth, curved teeth. For fine hair, try our Made in England side combs, which have a ridged grip.
Chignon pins
The neatest finish, with nothing on show at the top. Push the pin into the edge of the roll with the prongs pointing up, then turn it over and slide it down into the pleat. Use one near the top and one lower down.
Our metal-free 12cm pins suit long hair, and the 8cm pins suit medium hair or lots of fine hair. Both come as a pair.
A beak clip
The easiest for beginners and for shorter hair. Hold the pleat and slide the clip in along the fold, from the bottom upwards, so it grips the roll and the hair beneath.
For long or thicker hair, try the Ovale Wide or Infini beak clips. For medium hair, the 12.5cm Danette or the Spiral.
Which is best for your hair?
Fine hair
Fine hair tends to let smooth accessories slip. A comb with grip, such as our Made in England side combs, or 8cm chignon pins placed close together, will hold best.
Medium hair
Most options work. A 7cm French Twist Comb is quick, and a Danette beak clip is easy if you're new to pleats.
Long or thick hair
You need more room and more hold. Try the 10cm French Twist Comb, the 12cm chignon pins, or the Ovale Wide or Infini beak clips.
Good to know
Is a French pleat the same as a French twist?
Yes. In the UK it's usually called a French pleat, and in the US a French twist, but it's the same vertical roll at the back of the head.
How do I do a French pleat on myself?
Work by feel rather than in the mirror, which shows everything back to front. Keep one hand holding the twist the whole time and use the other to add the comb, pins or clip. It gets much easier after two or three tries.
Can I do a French pleat with short hair?
You need hair roughly shoulder length or longer to twist. With shoulder-length hair, a beak clip is the easiest way to hold it, as it grips a shorter roll well.
Why does my French pleat keep falling out?
Usually the twist is too loose, or the accessory only holds the roll and not the hair underneath. Twist more tightly, and make sure your comb, pins or clip catch some of the hair beneath the pleat as well.
Should I use an elastic?
You don't need one. If your hair is very slippery, a light hairspray or dry shampoo before you start gives it more grip.
More guides
Learn how to wear a side comb so it stays put, or how to use a hair bun holder for a bun that lasts all day.
